PLEASE DON'T GO BY THE SIZE LABELS - REFER TO MY MEASUREMENTS.

Size labels sewn into the garments by manufacturers are notoriously inaccurate. Often, the size difference is so off-base that I wonder if they weren't sewn-in by a disgruntled employee somewhere.  Additionally, there's the issue of whether a sweater labeled "Large" might be a child's or teenager's size large as opposed to a adult's.

Thus, I measure every sweater - new and old - and those measurements appear in the pop-up size chart on each sweater's page.  

If you receive a sweater that appears to be the wrong size, due to the size label, please try it on. Sometimes I forget to cut out the inaccurate size labels. 

Here's how I measure sweaters...

All measurements are made with the sweaters lying flat.

For an accurate comparison, I recommend you take a one of your sweaters that fits well and measure it lying accordingly and compare with measurements taken from the sweater you're considering.

Note: When measuring the chest, I measure across the front, from armpit to armpit then double that measurement.

Keep size labels in mind only as a general guide, since manufacturers follow different sizing standards depending on their target market. Sweaters made for Asian or European customers, for example, use regional sizing conventions that differ from US guidelines. On top of that, wrong labels get sewn into garments often enough that I now measure every sweater that arrives.

For accurate sizing, click on the "Size Chart" pop-up — those are my actual measurements for that sweater, not figures pulled from a standard size chart.

We have a 30-day return policy, for unworn garments returned in the same condition when shipped. Refunds exclude shipping costs.

Please don't send returns via FEDEX, the package will likely get lost; USPS & UPS work best. Custom orders are treated differently.

Full return policy details at: https://scottssweaters.com/policies/refund-policy

Within the USA:

We generally ship orders within the U.S. from our store in the Denver area via UPS or US Postal Service, taking 3-5 working days to arrive.

International Shipments:

International orders are sent via postal service First Class Air Mail, usually taking 4-7 days but must then clear Customs in your country, which may take a few more days. Generally, international shipments get delivered within 14 days. Faster shipping is available, but usually its rather costly. 

DHL and UPS international service is also available. 

Insurance is included for orders over $200. 

We no longer ship to certain countries due to delivery issues.

We "never" use FEDEX, due to consistant delivery and accountability concerns. 

Within the US, we ship via either the US Postal Service or UPS. (Due to service quality issues, we don't use FEDEX.)

Typically, delivery from here in Colorado to US destinations takes about 3-4 days.

International shipments that need to pass through Customs in your country take upwards of 12-14 days.

We ship globally every week to most first-world countries. If you're able to view this site without using a VPN router, then we likely ship to your county on a regular basis.

With concern and special arrangements, we can ship to countries where postal and customs officials have proven to be problematic. Please contact Scott before placing your order. 

Sure. If you're in the Denver, Colorado area contact Scott to arrange your pick-up.

European Union:

Import taxes are pre-paid for shipments heading to the European Union, due to recent changes in their tax laws. The previous exemption for items valued under €150 has been recinded. Pre-collection of these import fees results in much quicker delivery. 

Rest of the World:

No. We tried it, but found it's more expensive for our customers if we do so in advance. 

Scott's Sweaters does not cover any such taxes, duties or related charges and we do not cover charges on refused or unclaimed packages. 

Please check your countries own import thresholds/rates if you’re interested to know more as all duties and taxes are the responsibility of the customer.

Our contact information is as follows:

Phone: +1 305-923-4964,

Email: scott@scottssweaters.com,

Physical address is Scott's Sweaters, 34501 E Quincy Ave, Bldg 1C, Watkins, CO 80137-9308, United States.

With few exceptions, my products are already located within, and ship from, Denver, Colorado, USA. 

The only exceptions being: 1. Pre-ordered items currently in production and 2. Custom hand-knit projects where my knitter is located overseas.

34501 E Quincy Ave, Bldg 1C, Watkins, CO 80137-9308, United States.

Scott's Sweaters is a sole-proprietorship owned Scott Fraser since 1993.

Yes. Our showroom is located at 34501 E Quincy Ave, Bldg 1C, Watkins, CO 80137-9308, United States. Showings by appointment. 

Our facility can be viewed on our website at: https://scottssweaters.com/pages/showroom

Never, hang sweaters on hangers like you would a shirt or jacket.  Sweaters are heavy and its weight dangling from a hanger will pull a sweater out-of-shape.  Additionally, the hanger ends will cause little dimples/dents to appear on the shoulder tops, which are quite unsightly when the hanger is removed, and difficult to fix. 

Metal hangers rust, and rust stains are nearly impossible to remove from sweaters. If you feel you must store a sweater on a hanger, use a wooden hanger, fold the sweater lengthwise, then drape the folded sweater over the bottom bar of the hanger. If I hang sweaters from a hanger, here's how I do it.

Store sweaters in a cool environment, in something that can breathe, like a zippered sweater bag you can get from most department stores.  I like to toss a scented dryer sheet into the bag as well.  The scent makes the sweater smell nice, seems to prevent mold spores and keeps most pests away. Another option is using small bags of cedar wood chips, but they can be a bit pricey and need replacing annually.

Don't use mothballs.  They keep moths away, but it's extremely hard to get the mothball smell out of sweaters.

There are different methods of dry cleaning, and it’s difficult for a customer to tell the difference.  When using a dry cleaner, you want to avoid three types:

• Green solutions:  The “green” solutions are environmentally friendly, but simply don’t clean very well.
• Perk (Perchloroethylene): This process is very harsh on the fibers, and over time removes the luster from nice sweaters. 
• Dryel (and other home drycleaning products):  Not sure how these products are supposed to work, but my experience has been that I couldn’t tell any difference before and after cleaning a sweater with these products.

If you’re going to use a professional dry cleaner, I’d recommend one that uses the hydrocarbon method.

The best cleaning solution I’ve found is “Eucalan” wool cleaner.  It comes  different scents; I prefer the  Eucalyptus version.  Eucalan is available at amazon.com. You use this product much like Woolite, but Eucalan is much gentler on fibers than Woolite.

If I've got a few or several sweaters to clean, I use a top-loading washing machine tub without turning it on. 

• Half-fill (or less, if fewer sweaters) the tub with cool or lukewarm water. 
• Pour in an appropriate amount of Eucalan
• Let the sweaters soak for about 15 minutes. 
• Hand-kneed the sweaters by reaching into the tub and squeezing the water through the garments. Ensure you squeeze all parts of the sweaters; you really can't overdue this phase. The more you squeeze the cleaner the sweaters.
• Advance the dial to the final spin cycle - you want to avoid the rinse cycle as the Eucalan is designed to leave a protective coating behind on the fibers. Spinning the sweaters in the washer will force the vast majority of the water out of the sweaters. They may be a bit misshapen from the spinning, so don't leave them setting like that for long.
• Take each damp sweater and roll it in a towel on the floor. Walk along the rolled towel, forcing the remaining water out of the sweaters and into the towel. Remove the towels.
• Lay the sweaters out to dry, preferably flat - away from direct sunlight. Reshape the sweaters as necessary while they are still damp. They make sweater drying screens for this that lets air circulate all around, or just periodically flip them over. 

Also, another trick for bringing the life back to angora, is to place it in a paper bag with the opening closed, and leave it in the freezer overnight.  Does wonders for angora.

The number one rule is to not over-clean angora sweaters. Only clean them when they are really soiled. Many people have the misconception you have to clean knitwear before and after storage — this is necessary only if they are really dirty.

Wash your angora knitwear by hand (do not dry clean) in cold or lukewarm water and a neutral Ph balanced or acidic shampoo or soap (angora and wool are protein fibers). Rinse in cool water to remove all soap or shampoo residue without rubbing. Lay flat to dry at room temperature. AVOID tumble-drying, sunlight and bleaching. Do not EVER place an angora garment in the dryer, or the washer bin; it will be ruined. 

 Shampoo can be used with any "hair" fiber, such as angora yarn or wool. Hair conditioner in the rinse water will help soften and relax the "hair” fibers. We highly recommend "Eucalan" available from  Amazon.com.  We don't recommend Woolite.

Water temperature: cool to lukewarm. Cool doesn't mean, ice-cold.  Ice-cold water combined with soap will shock protein fibers and will cause wool to felt and sometimes cause the dye to run. Warm water causes fibers to relax which allows soil to be released. Warm water will also set dye and some stains, while cold water will release excess dye. Heat, soap, and agitation will cause wool to felt. 

I use a top-loading washing machine as a basin, without using the wash nor rinse cycles. Half-fill the basin, add the cleaner (mix the solution - I briefly use the agitator to do this) and let the garment soak for about 20 minutes, stirring it around only once in a while.  If using "Eucalan," do not rinse, as leaving it in the sweater acts as a moth repellant. It's available in different scents that remain on the sweater after cleaning; I prefer the eucalyptus version. 

One solution of Eucalan can wash several sweaters. Begin with the light-colored sweaters first. I mix a few light-colored sweaters in a single batch, then follow with batches of dark-colored sweaters. Making sure to skip the machine's wash and rinse cycles, I use the machine to empty out the basin and spin most of the water out of the sweaters. Don't leave the wet sweaters in the basin once the water has been spun-out, you don't want their briefly twisted shape to set-in.

Do not wring out the sweater - roll in a towel and gently push on the towel to remove excess water. Then lay it flat to dry over something with ventilation, like a clothes rack. Never hang a sweater, a scarf or any knitwear on a hanger or a doorknob – it will stretch the shape.

Ironing:  Do not iron angora sweaters.

Storage:  The best way to store a sweater is folded on a shelf where there is some ventilation. Cedar is best for protection from moths. I don't recommend mothballs, as the odor is very pungent and is very hard to get out of sweaters after storage.

Special Trick:  To liven-up angora fibers and restore their luster, place the garment in a paper bag and leave it in the freezer for a few hours. It will be revitalized.