We have a 30-day return policy. Refunds exclude shipping costs.

Please don't send returns via FEDEX, the package will likely get lost; USPS & UPS work best. Custom orders are treated differently.

Full return policy details at: https://scottssweaters.com/policies/refund-policy

We generally ship orders within the U.S. via UPS or USPS Priority Mail, taking 3-5 working days to arrive.

International orders are sent via postal service First Class Air Mail, usually taking 4-7 days but must then clear Customs in your country, which may take a few more days. Generally, international shipments get delivered within 14 days. Faster shipping is available, but usually its rather costly. 

Insurance is included for orders over $200. 

We no longer ship to certain countries due to delivery issues.

Within the US, we ship via either the US Postal Service or UPS. (Due to service quality issues, we don't use FEDEX.)

Typically, delivery from here in Colorado to US destinations takes about 3-4 days.

International shipments that need to pass through Customs in your country take upwards of 12-14 days.

We ship globally every week to most first-world countries. If you're able to view this site without using a VPN router, then we likely ship to your county on a regular basis.

With concern and special arrangements, we can ship to countries where postal and customs officials have proven to be problematic. Please contact Scott before placing your order. 

Sure. If you're in the Denver, Colorado area contact Scott to arrange your pick-up.

Looking for a certain style, color, size, fiber... filters are your best friend.

On the top-of-page menu, click on "Everything" - or more specifically Men's->All Men's Sweaters or Women's->All Women's Sweaters - then use the filters to drill-down to exactly what you're looking for.

• Gender
• Style (cardigan, V-neck, crewneck, sweaterdress etc.)
• Size
• Color
• Fabric
• Age group
• Price
• Sort by: date added, price, featured items, best selling etc. 

Lately, I've had a lot of inquires about Icelandic coats and sweaters made by Hilda Ltd. of Iceland and where they can be obtained. Unfortunately, Hilda went out of business some 25+ years ago and no company is making the styles they did. 

One of the reasons Hilda went out of business was because their garments were of very good quality and often lasted more than two decades. Once someone purchased a Hilda sweater or jacket they rarely needed another. From time to time I get hold of some Hilda sweaters and jackets. To see what Hilda Ltd. sweaters and coats are available, check my pages for "Woman's Icelandic Wool" & "Men's Icelandic Wool."

Or, simply type "Hilda" into my website's search bar.

Our contact information is as follows:

Phone: +1 305-923-4964,

Email: scott@scottssweaters.com,

Physical address is Scott's Sweaters, 34501 E Quincy Ave, Bldg 1C, Watkins, CO 80137-9308, United States.

With few exceptions, my products are already located within, and ship from, Denver, Colorado, USA. 

The only exceptions being: 1. Pre-ordered items currently in production and 2. Custom hand-knit projects where my knitter is located overseas.

34501 E Quincy Ave, Bldg 1C, Watkins, CO 80137-9308, United States.

Scott's Sweaters is a sole-proprietorship owned Scott Fraser since 1993.

Yes. Our showroom is located at 34501 E Quincy Ave, Bldg 1C, Watkins, CO 80137-9308, United States. Showings by appointment. 

Our facility can be viewed on our website at: https://scottssweaters.com/pages/showroom

Never, hang sweaters on hangers like you would a shirt or jacket.  Sweaters are heavy and its weight dangling from a hanger will pull a sweater out-of-shape.  Additionally, the hanger ends will cause little dimples/dents to appear on the shoulder tops, which are quite unsightly when the hanger is removed, and difficult to fix. 

Metal hangers rust, and rust stains are nearly impossible to remove from sweaters. If you feel you must store a sweater on a hanger, use a wooden hanger, fold the sweater lengthwise, then drape the folded sweater over the bottom bar of the hanger. If I hang sweaters from a hanger, here's how I do it.

Store sweaters in a cool environment, in something that can breathe, like a zippered sweater bag you can get from most department stores.  I like to toss a scented dryer sheet into the bag as well.  The scent makes the sweater smell nice, seems to prevent mold spores and keeps most pests away. Another option is using small bags of cedar wood chips, but they can be a bit pricey and need replacing annually.

Don't use mothballs.  They keep moths away, but it's extremely hard to get the mothball smell out of sweaters.

There are different methods of dry cleaning, and it’s difficult for a customer to tell the difference.  When using a dry cleaner, you want to avoid three types:

• Green solutions:  The “green” solutions are environmentally friendly, but simply don’t clean very well.
• Perk (Perchloroethylene): This process is very harsh on the fibers, and over time removes the luster from nice sweaters. 
• Dryel (and other home drycleaning products):  Not sure how these products are supposed to work, but my experience has been that I couldn’t tell any difference before and after cleaning a sweater with these products.

If you’re going to use a professional dry cleaner, I’d recommend one that uses the hydrocarbon method.

The best cleaning solution I’ve found is “Eucalan” wool cleaner.  It comes  different scents; I prefer the  Eucalyptus version.  Eucalan is available at amazon.com. You use this product much like Woolite, but Eucalan is much gentler on fibers than Woolite.

If I've got a few or several sweaters to clean, I use a top-loading washing machine tub without turning it on. 

• Half-fill (or less, if fewer sweaters) the tub with cool or lukewarm water. 
• Pour in an appropriate amount of Eucalan
• Let the sweaters soak for about 15 minutes. 
• Hand-kneed the sweaters by reaching into the tub and squeezing the water through the garments. Ensure you squeeze all parts of the sweaters; you really can't overdue this phase. The more you squeeze the cleaner the sweaters.
• Advance the dial to the final spin cycle - you want to avoid the rinse cycle as the Eucalan is designed to leave a protective coating behind on the fibers. Spinning the sweaters in the washer will force the vast majority of the water out of the sweaters. They may be a bit misshapen from the spinning, so don't leave them setting like that for long.
• Take each damp sweater and roll it in a towel on the floor. Walk along the rolled towel, forcing the remaining water out of the sweaters and into the towel. Remove the towels.
• Lay the sweaters out to dry, preferably flat - away from direct sunlight. Reshape the sweaters as necessary while they are still damp. They make sweater drying screens for this that lets air circulate all around, or just periodically flip them over. 

Also, another trick for bringing the life back to angora, is to place it in a paper bag with the opening closed, and leave it in the freezer overnight.  Does wonders for angora.

The number one rule is to not over-clean angora sweaters. Only clean them when they are really soiled. Many people have the misconception you have to clean knitwear before and after storage — this is necessary only if they are really dirty.

Wash your angora knitwear by hand (do not dry clean) in cold or lukewarm water and a neutral Ph balanced or acidic shampoo or soap (angora and wool are protein fibers). Rinse in cool water to remove all soap or shampoo residue without rubbing. Lay flat to dry at room temperature. AVOID tumble-drying, sunlight and bleaching. Do not EVER place an angora garment in the dryer, or the washer bin; it will be ruined. 

 Shampoo can be used with any "hair" fiber, such as angora yarn or wool. Hair conditioner in the rinse water will help soften and relax the "hair” fibers. We highly recommend "Eucalan" available from  Amazon.com.  We don't recommend Woolite.

Water temperature: cool to lukewarm. Cool doesn't mean, ice-cold.  Ice-cold water combined with soap will shock protein fibers and will cause wool to felt and sometimes cause the dye to run. Warm water causes fibers to relax which allows soil to be released. Warm water will also set dye and some stains, while cold water will release excess dye. Heat, soap, and agitation will cause wool to felt. 

I use a top-loading washing machine as a basin, without using the wash nor rinse cycles. Half-fill the basin, add the cleaner (mix the solution - I briefly use the agitator to do this) and let the garment soak for about 20 minutes, stirring it around only once in a while.  If using "Eucalan," do not rinse, as leaving it in the sweater acts as a moth repellant. It's available in different scents that remain on the sweater after cleaning; I prefer the eucalyptus version. 

One solution of Eucalan can wash several sweaters. Begin with the light-colored sweaters first. I mix a few light-colored sweaters in a single batch, then follow with batches of dark-colored sweaters. Making sure to skip the machine's wash and rinse cycles, I use the machine to empty out the basin and spin most of the water out of the sweaters. Don't leave the wet sweaters in the basin once the water has been spun-out, you don't want their briefly twisted shape to set-in.

Do not wring out the sweater - roll in a towel and gently push on the towel to remove excess water. Then lay it flat to dry over something with ventilation, like a clothes rack. Never hang a sweater, a scarf or any knitwear on a hanger or a doorknob – it will stretch the shape.

Ironing:  Do not iron angora sweaters.

Storage:  The best way to store a sweater is folded on a shelf where there is some ventilation. Cedar is best for protection from moths. I don't recommend mothballs, as the odor is very pungent and is very hard to get out of sweaters after storage.

Special Trick:  To liven-up angora fibers and restore their luster, place the garment in a paper bag and leave it in the freezer for a few hours. It will be revitalized.